Holy Island

Tara protecting long life and spiritual practice was placed on Friday morning up at the retreat cabin on Holy Island built for HH Karmapa. I arrived on the island on Wednesday, travelling easily and quickly from Ardrossan to Brodick on the Arran ferry, hopping on the bus down to Lamlash and then taking the little boat over to the island. From Arran, the island is clearly visible, rising up like a great mountain from the water. Protected by its proximity to Arran at the north end, the short crossing to the island takes place on a regular basis during the summer months, but perhaps only twice a week during winter. Volunteers were waiting to greet us, rushing to put down the wooden jetty, but it took a couple of attempts to bring the boat close enough to the jetty. Walking up to the Centre for World Peace and Health, eight small stupas line the path and remind the visitor of the Buddhist presence on the island - a presence that is very discreet and subtle once you're inside the centre.

The island itself is a rare natural haven for wildlife and a great deal of work has already been done, and continues to be done, to preserve the island's delicate ecology. The Centre itself has been designed to have minimal impact on the environment - solar panels, reed beds, organic gardens and proposed wind turbines all reduce energy expenditure; whilst the planting of native trees and the clearing of invasive non-indigenous plants enhance the original habitat.

The walk to the retreat cabin stretches from one end of the island to the other; and at first light on Friday, I set off with Tara in my pocket, listening to the high screetch of seagulls as I wandered along the rocky path saying mantras and watching the oystercatchers scuttling along the beach, the Soay sheep clambering up and down the rocks, the calm waters of the bay lapping gently at the water's edge. The south end of the island is much more exposed and in high winds, it's virtually impossible to walk that far - but today it was calm and mild and there were no problems. Except that I missed my footing on one rock and sunk deep into the mud at one point.

As you approach the south end, you pass a series of rock paintings: first there is White Tara, then Green Tara.... and then some of the founders of the Kagyu lineage, namely Marpa, Gampopa, Milarepa. The lighthouse at the south end comes into view and a collection of converted cottages: this is now the women's retreat centre and has recently hosted the first traditional long-term retreat for women in Britain. Beyond the perimeter of the fence and the path turns sharply to the left and begins to make the steep ascent to the top. A few hundred yards along the path, a small private path winds its way up to the retreat cabin.

Reaching the cabin, I turned round and stared at the view across the sea, with the southern tip of Arran visible to the right of the island. The sense of space, of light, of emptiness was immense - it was the right place for a meditation and retreat cabin. Through the little gate and into the garden, I was amused to see the name "Wisdom Palace" etched in wood at the entrance to this large but very simple wooden hut. Who needs material riches to live wealthily?? It's all in the mind.

Having done three koras of the cabin, I planted Tara in the centre of the little stone garden. May Karmapa's life be protected and may his wish to do retreat on Holy Island be fulfilled quickly and without obstacles.